Personally I don't like any cms's, they are ok, but unless oyu know the particular one REALLY well you find that you have to stick with already made templates, also as soon as you want to do something slightly advanced they can become really confusing and hard to manage.
So in summary: CMS's are ok for small standard sites which don't need alot of non-standard features.
Handcoded always is better because you know EXACTLY what part of the code does what, and if you need to add a new feature it's often very easy to find the right place to add / edit the code. Also I tend to think hand coded looks better because CMS's often crowd the interface too much whereas hand-coded gives you the abillity to put what you want exactly where you want it.